An inconstant record...

...of my itinerant travels through space and time.

1.31.2006

Greenpeace (Take 3)

After 2 weeks of failed attempts, I finally succeeded today in volunteering for Greenpeace Argentina! I now know exactly what all those well-intentioned caring souls must have went through during those long weeks I was too busy to return their calls at RAN. Sorry about that - I promise to treat volunteers better in the future.

For those of you reading who have had the pleasure of visiting the GP Equipment Center in Potrero Hill, the "workshop" space down here is deja vú similar, even down to the metal wall covered in magnets where you project and trace banners... The whole afternoon felt oddly familiar. I spent hours doing an inventory of action gear, learning all sorts of new esoteric spanish words (walkie talkie, jumpsuit, climbing harness), and thinking fondly of Nancy Johnson and all the other current and past GPers with whom I've spent long nights in the EC painting banners. Love you guys! I also met Cllicia from GP Brazil - we had one of those "small-world moments" when we realized that we have a half-dozen friends in common around the world.

Greenpeace is just amazing that way... no matter where you go, you find radical and hip enviros doing great work, all painting banners, wearing funny orange jumpsuits, and generally being badass in the same way whether you're in San Francisco, Moscow, West Papua, or Buenos Aires.

The photo above was taken in my neighborhood plaza at lunchtime... just a small reminder for all you New Englanders that it's summertime down here!

1.30.2006

Graffiti Tour (Part II)

There's so much great street art in mi barrio that I had to post another gallery of it. To see the rest, click here. I'm especially partial to the dense stencil-wheatpaste combinations (below): some remind me of Rauschenberg's "Combines," now on view at the Met in NYC. (I went to see them on a rainy day just after New Year's. For all you New Yorkers who have the time to check it out, you should.) Enjoy...

World Social Forum in Venezuela

Those of you who have been following my travel plans from way back in early 2005 know that the original idea was to attend the World Social Forum in Venezuela this week. Circumstances and finances brought me here to Argentina instead, but the WSF in Caracas has brought over 100,000 activists together from across the globe to discuss democracy, peace, social justice, economic and environmental sustainability, and many other pressing issues. Many of my Global Exchange friends are in Venezuela right now working their tails off: leading workshops, coordinating tours of community projects, and just being their bad selves. If you want a nice snapshot of what the week was like at the Forum, check out Global Exchange's WSF blog. It's a good read.

1.29.2006

Tigres y Dragónes y Osos (Oh My!)

Today I woke early to meet José, the Chilean yoga instructor, and my housemate Kaia for a short day trip to Tigre, a small city at the end of the commuter rail line that is the gateway to the Paraná River delta. Hordes of porteños who for whatever reason - time, money - can't make it to resorts further from the city crowd Tigre on summer weekends with picnic gear to enjoy amusements and the water in one way or another. Like a poorer, South American version of Venice, mixed with the amusement park vibe of Coney Island. Tigre is full of canals and water taxis that take you up and down the various tributaries to vacation homes, campgrounds, low-budget riverside resorts, and a few private clubs like the snobby, hundred-year-old Buenos Aires Rowing Club and Buenos Aires Yacht Club. We took a short river cruise, and poked around for a while in town...

Afterwards, upon disembarking from the train in the Belgrano neighborhood, we stumbled across the Chinese New Year parade, where I learned that "dragon" in Español is "dragón." How cool is that?

All I need now is a run-in with a bear before bedtime tonight and I will have completed the famed Wizard of Oz hat-trick: tigers and dragons and bears, oh my! ...not sure where I'm gonna find one at this hour on a Sunday... If only this were San Francisco, I could just hit up the Castro and find a big friendly bear in no time.

1.27.2006

A Brief Meditation on Empire

American empire, if that's what you want to call it (I do) is a fascinating thing. Of course, there's the fierce military power projected around the globe, and the largest supercharged consumer economy the world has ever known. Hollywood, too, has a powerful grip on the imaginations of the world's movie-going and television-watching masses. But artsy, underground cinema from the Global South? Say it isn't so!

Last night I went to MALBA, the modern art museum, for a free short film screening, expecting a taste of independent Argentine cinema, and perhaps an interesting cultural experience. What do artists in Argentina want to communicate through film? What stories do they want to tell? Wouldn't it be cool to find out!

But as the film began, I had an uncanny sense of familiarity with the scene unfolding on the screen before me. Is that -- no, couldn't be... wait, it is! -- the Manhatttan Bridge and the rooftops of Brooklyn? A NYC taxicab? The streets of the East Village? Turns out the independent Argentine filmmaker got his degree from the Tisch School at NYU. All the dialogue was in English, and the characters and story were echt NYC. The film basically felt like a nicely-made Wesleyan senior thesis project, but screened at the leading contemporary arts museum in Argentina instead of the campus auditorium in Middletown, CT.

What does it mean that an independent Argentine filmmaker chooses to portray a story not from his own culture, but from mine? Is the simple fact that the director is a native of Argentina reason enough for a major cultural institution here to so prominently feature his work, despite its explicit lack of any national or regional context, content, or meaning? I guess so.

In a way it's perversely enjoyable to feel like my (soon to be) hometown is universally acknowledged as the undisputed center of the universe, but COME ON... I didn't come all the way to South America to bask in the glory of my own country's sick magnetism and global allure. For that, I'm planning on spending the next three years living right there, in the belly of the beast. Maybe it's time to get out of slick Buenos Aires and off into the Bolivian Altiplano, where somehow I figure there's bound to be a bit less high class cultural detritus floating around.

Ah, to be an American traveler at the height of our Imperial folly!

UFO Sighting!

Walking around in the seemingly never-ending string of Recoleta parks and greenspaces yesterday afternoon, I stumbled across a giant flower-shaped UFO landing pod that had crashed into a small grassy hill. It was metalic and shining in the sun, and had huge 25 foot petals that looked like they opened and closed on hinges of some sort. Thank God I snapped a few pictures, otherwise no one would believe me...

1.25.2006

La Boca

La Boca is the southeasternmost Bs. As. neighborhood, surrounded by piers at the mouth of a small river, historically a poorer, immigrant community where 100 years ago stevedores and dockworkers used leftover boat paint to brighten their homes. Today, most of La Boca is "not recommended" for tourists because it's still a working class neighborhood. A small tourist section with the largest concentration of colored buildings is full of street vendors and those painted wooden scenes where you pay to have your photo taken sticking your head through a hole in the scene... not really for me. As soon as I stepped off the bus, which had taken an hour, the thong on my flipflop snapped, forcing me to limp along, dragging my lame flipflop behind me by clenching the thong between my toes as I searched, to no avail, for a shop where I could find a replacement pair and carry on with my sightseeing. After a few minutes of hobbling around, dodging dog piles (which are EVERYWHERE in this city), I gave up and hopped the bus back to Palermo to go find a new pair of havaianas.

1.24.2006

Simple Pleasures

Is there anything more delicious than sitting in a café near an open window on a warm summer afternoon, drinking a coffee and leisurely reading the newspaper while watching pedestrians pass by as the sky fills with clouds and it begins to rain, softly at first and then suddenly hard, with thunderclaps and lightning, thereby creating a wonderful soundtrack to go with your reading as fat raindrops bounce off the white awning outside and run burbling together into the gutter while you just stay put, comfortable and dry and with nowhere to rush off to all afternoon?

Update: Greenpeace

I still haven't started volunteering, but I can't blame these guys for not returning my calls... turns out everyone's up in Entre Rios State coordinating a series of major actions and at the same time meeting with the Argentine government to offer strategic advice on how to extricate itself from the growing diplomatic spat with Uruguay over the construction of 2 massive, polluting pulp mills. Read more about it here (English) and here (Español). I've been in this exact position at RAN: too busy to accept offers of help from amazing volunteers, yet feeling badly that good people who mean well are being turned away. Alas... es la vida de un ambientalisto!

1.23.2006

Evo Takes Over

After a dramatic and colorful ceremony Saturday at the ruins of Tiwanaku, the most sacred site to the region's Aymara and Quechua peoples, Evo Morales was inaugurated yesterday as Bolivia's first indigenous president. Over 40,000 people made the long journey up to Tiwanaku, near Lake Titicaca, to be present for the historic event. It has been more than 500 years since this "coronation" ceremony - elevating Evo to the status of supreme leader of the continent's indigenous peoples - was last performed, and judging by the pictures and the newspaper reports, it was a stirring (and globally significant) event.

Reading an assortment of articles in Clarín, La Nacion, and the Buenos Aires Herald yesterday, I found myself thinking about the complex interplay between power, empire, culture, religion, and history. In many ways, Evo's rise to power is a profound symbol to mark the end of a long era of Bolivian exploitation and penury: first at the hands of Spain during its ruthless colonization in pursuit of silver in the mines at Potosí, later by the Bolivian-born descendents of Spanish colonialists, and most recently because of the harsh economic conditions forced upon the country by the IMF as well as the irrational and costly "war on drugs" being bankrolled and fought by the U.S.

A resource-rich country, Bolivia by rights should be a stable, functioning state. But with over 70% of the population living in poverty, South America's poorest nation is yet another example of the "Paradox of Plenty", the resource curse that keeps so many of the world's naturally bountiful countries - think Congo, Nigeria, Indonesia - also among its most impoverished. Set against a history of colonialism, oppression, and crushing poverty, Saturday's ceremony seemed like it could usher in a new era in Latin American politics, and that's somwhat the way it has - haltingly, cautiously - been reported in the papers. At yesterday's inauguration, Evo declared that 500 years of colonial oppression were over, and that Bolivia's indigenous majority should expect to be in power for the next 500.

But the story is not so simple. Power is a tricky thing. It is clearly good for Evo to have won a peaceful and democratic election, and good for him to have risen to the presidency on a wave of unprecedented popular support, especially among those who have been historically marginalized and shut out of the political process. But now the arduous task of governing is before him, and it's obviously quite risky to place so many hopes and aspirations at the feet of one man and in the actions of one presidential administration.

Here's the rub: If Evo kowtows to the multinational corporations which provide so much of the investment capital Bolivia needs in order to maintain good standing in the global marketplace, he runs the risk of disappointing or angering his own base. These are the people who took to the streets, with Evo as their leader, to topple the Lozada and Mesa presidencies. They may take to the streets yet again, frustrated by the lack of radical change or the slow pace of progress, but this time without a popular and charismatic leader to rally behind. The country could be thrown into political chaos, and economic crisis would soon follow.

But if Evo remains true to the MAS platform that won him the presidency - including the nationalization of gas reserves and the total legalization of coca cultivation - he could provoke a severe backlash among Bolivia's many foreign investors and creditors, as well as the wrath of the U.S., which maintains a profoundly illogical and unrealistic - yet serious - commitment to coca eradication in Bolivia.

With the continent's second largest gas reserves after Venezuela, Bolivia should, in theory, be able to follow that country's path to relative prosperity. Like Chávez, Evo could use revenues from the sale of gas to fund social programs and re-distribute a significant chunk of wealth to many of the nation's poorest citizens. But without a strong state-run gas company like PDVSA in Venezuela, Evo can't afford to scare away the foreign corporations who maintain the infrastructure and pump the gas. Will he be able to strike the right balance in re-negotiating contracts so that Bolivia gets a much better deal, the radical MAS faction is satisfied that the multinationals have been put in their place, yet these companies stay invested in the country and don't sue Bolivia in international trade courts?

Moreover, will the spectre of cheap cocaine flooding American cities eclipse all other issues in the eyes of the Bush administration, provoking a conflict - military or otherwise - that will put Bolivia's anti-poverty and social justice aspirations on hold, or worse?

No doubt Evo has a very fine line to walk in the coming months. I'm eager to get to Bolivia, where, with much-improved Spanish skills, I can hopefully begin to explore some of these issues in greater depth. For now, I wish Evo the best, and will be following his actions closely in the Argentine press these next few weeks. Stay tuned...

1.22.2006

Weekend in the Park(s)

A lot like Dolores Park in SF, Parque Las Heras in the Recoleta neighborhood is full of sunbathers, dogwalkers, fútbol players, and plenty of people picnicking and napping. A good place to read the paper or write in a journal or people watch. Will be there later this afternoon...

More like the far reaches of Golden Gate Park, La Reserva Ecológica on the east side of Puerto Madero is sprawling and full of winding dirt paths that pass through forested areas and end at the ocean waterfront. There are plenty of porteños (Bs. As. natives) hanging out, sipping mate, and jogging. Yesterday my housemate Kaia and I rented bikes and spent several hours cruising around...

Parque 3 de Febrero in Palermo is a bit like Central Park in that there's the zoo, the botanical gardens, the polo fields, a golf course, and several major thoroughfares cutting across it. A short walk from my apartment, I may amble through after lunch and then make my way over to Recoleta.

1.20.2006

Grafitti Tour Palermo 2006!

Below - some of the fabulous (and reminiscent of San Francisco) street art on display in my 'hood. As far as I can tell, Palermo is to Bs. As. as the Mission west of Valencia St. is to SF. Or as Williamsburg is to Brooklyn. Still a bit edgy, with the occasional auto-body shop in view, but recently invaded by hipster clothing boutiques, trendy cafés, dimly-lit bars with beautiful people spilling out onto the sidewalks at 3AM, and... street art. It's no doubt a nice place to be for now, familiar and easy while I practice Spanish and get my travelling legs, but after 2.5 more weeks I'll certainly be ready to move on.

1.19.2006

New Photos

Just a quick note to say that I've added photos to several previous posts now that the computer in my apartment is finally speaking to the camera. I've already exceeded my monthly uploading capacity on Flickr, so no new photos there until after Feb 1. Enjoy!

Greenpeace is Everywhere!

I found Greenpeace's Buenos Aires headquarters today and dropped by to say hello. The office is in a quiet residential neighborhood, and it's been retrofitted with solar panels on the roof and a state-of-the-art waste reduction system. Gonzalo, their volunteer coordinator, was out but I left him a message and hopefully will start working there on Monday as a volunteer. Should be a great way to learn spanish, meet some cool folks, and keep myself busy for the next few weeks!

1.18.2006

So Refreshing

Reading today's newspaper was like taking a breath of fresh air when compared to American papers (despite my need to use the dictionary every third sentence as well as my never-ending love of the Sunday NYT). Real news and real issues that are regionally important, globally significant, and practically without fail never reported in the myopic U.S. media.

Above the fold: a story about rapidly-warming relations between Chile and Bolivia, which severed all diplomatic ties in 1978 due to a 100-year-old dispute about coastal access (Bolivia is landlocked: Chile claimed its coastline during a war back in the 1880s and never gave it back). Evo Morales invited President Lagos to attend his inauguration next Sunday in La Paz, and Lagos, in one of his last official acts in office before socialist Bachelet takes over, accepted, making him the first Chilean president to ever attend a Bolivian inauguration ceremony. Lula in Brazil, Chavez in VZ, Bachelet in Chile, Morales in Bolivia, Kirchner in Argentina, and perhaps a lefty win in April's Peruvian election... warm statements between heads of state and a shared animosity towards the U.S.... can an expanded and more powerful Mercosur trading block be far away? Go Latin American solidary in the face of fading U.S. regional influence!

Also on page 1, a big photo and story about a Greenpeace action yesterday across the border in Uruguay calling attention to the illegal construction of two massive pulp mills being built by Finnish and Spanish timber companies. Seems the downriver communities in Argentina are pissed off and blockading the main highway between Arg. and Ur at the height of summer tourist season, creating quite a diplomatic spat between the two countries. 10 GP activists were arrested at the action yesterday, but were released several hours later and greeted as heroes by the folks at the blockade, making national news and throwing a wrench in construction plans. Go Greenpeace!

Anyway, it's back to more reading comprehension lessons for me. With newspapers like this, it's easy!

Moving On Up!

It´s only my 3rd full day in Buenos Aires but I´ve already somewhat shaken the "everything´s new and overwhelming" feeling - mostly by just spending large amounts of time walking around and getting a feel for the city. It´s not that it´s familiar just yet, but at least I can navigate a few neighborhoods, the subway, etc., without having to take my map out at every intersection. Feels great.

I´ve decided that, since my #1 goal for this trip is to learn Spanish, and since everyone in the hostel speaks only English, I should move into an apartment... like, this afternoon... for a month. My roomates will be Fabian and Roberto, both Spanish-speakers, and Kaia, from Oregon, who´s in a similar position to me, and wants to be forced to speak Spanish at home as well. The apartment is perfectly located, comfortable, and cheaper than staying in the hostel! Will of course post some photos once I can get my camera hooked up to the computer...

my picturesque neighborhood

the view from my window

Later this afternoon I start private Spanish lessons with Isabel, a woman who posted a classified ad in the English-language Buenos Aires Herald... we´ll see how it goes.

1.17.2006

Day One

An observation: Buenos Aires is more Euro than some places in Europe! On day one I spent a lot of time wandering around several neighborhoods, peoplewatching and trying to overhear snippets of conversation. Not only do most people look German/French/Spanish, they dress and act like they are as well. Honestly, I think there are fewer latino-looking people in some parts of this city than in my old Mission neighborhood in SF!

Other cool stuff: The Recoleta Cemetery, full of the giant mausoleums of Argentina´s moneyed elite from a hundred years ago, is something to behold. A whole little city of tombs, laid out in little neighborhoods, with hired keepers to clean and check up on the family patriarchs, and packs of semi-feral cats running around like they own the place. Strange...




Also, MALBA - the modern art museum (top) is a great place to spend a lazy afternoon. The multimedia installation with bossa nova music piped in from massive speakers, wall-sized video projections, and comfy mattresses on the floor was an especially nice find after several hours of walking around the city...

Today I´m off to find an apartment to rent for several weeks (gotta love Craigslist!) and enroll in spanish lessons. I´m also going to try and make it to La Casa Rosada to see if I can catch Evo Morales, Bolivia´s new president-elect, make his first state visit to Argentina on Kirchner´s invitation. Oh, and in other news, the newspapers are filled with articles about "la primera presidenta," Michelle Bachelet, the socialist woman who won Chile´s Sunday election, making her the continent´s first female president! Lots going on down here... will try to stay on top of it and keep these postings coming...

1.14.2006

Not exactly what I had in mind...


It's the middle of the night and I should be on an airplane en route to Argentina. Instead I'm blogging via my television at the Washington Dulles Hyatt. WTF?!

Fog in NYC grounded my flight out of JFK this afternoon. 9 hours, 4 subways, 2 taxis, and 3 customer service desks later, I got a flight out of LaGuardia. Now I've made it as far as Northern VA.

Silver lining? The hotel shower has great water pressure, and the bed is plush... even better though is the sustainable forestry executive from Salta, Argentina I met in line. He's hip to Rainforest Action Network and wants to show me around his hometown when I get there in a few weeks.

Como se dice "serendipity?"

1.13.2006

On My Way

Tomorrow: Breakfast --> Drive to New Haven --> Train to Grand Central --> Subway to JFK --> Plane to Washington Dulles --> Flight to EZE...

Saturday: Buenos Aires --?

1.10.2006

The Challenge

Can I fit 5 months of provisions into this meager backpack? Most of the next 24 hrs will be spent answering this question... stay tuned!

1.09.2006

Errands!

Getting ready for my departure consists of errands. Lots and lots of errands. Slowly crossing items off one to-do list, I'm consistently adding more to some other list I've started. Ahh, lists! PS, the photo above is from my October trip to the Brazilian Amazon with RAN.