Have you ever stared down the gizzard of a angry, hungry pelican? It's intense.On my way out to the wildlife-sanctuary/guano-fertilizer-farm known as Las Islas Ballestas, I was treated to the ugliness of a flock of 2 dozen pelicans hungily chasing around a little Peruvian boy with a bag of anchovies and an outstretched hand looking for tips from the photo-snapping tourists waiting to be loaded onto the boats.
The islands were better. Much better. Never seen so many sea lions, and a flock of endangered cormorants so huge it was hard to believe they're actually endangered. You know how they say "the sky was black with birds" to describe some lost age before humans wiped out most of the planet's wildlife? Well, it was. I was lucky not to get guanoed... the girl next to me suffered a direct hit right in her lap. But being out on the water watching them stream endlessly overhead and listening to the flap of a hundred thousands wings was well worth the risk, methinks.
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